Відео

Monster in lowlight

Nice

cool! well done

I have this problem and I have tried every work-around that I can find on the internet but still it exists. I took the XT5 on a once in a lifetime trip to Namibia and a high percentage of my shots were out of focus, I was upset to say the least. I'm now at the stage where I've decided to switch systems, it's a shame because I really like Fuji gear and love the XT5 but I can no longer trust it to produce the results I want.

Fuji…you should do your homework. Such a shame due to the prices you demand

What ?

Is it better now? And how do you install the new software on your camera? I have the exact same problem with my camera!😢

I just bought the “new” 56mm f/1.2 R WR. And when used on af-s and af-c it has issues, it’s clunks before finding focus. HOWEVER when in manual focus mode, and i override with backbutton focus it works as it should.. the crazy part is, it does this on my X-T5 aswel as my X-Pro3. Im running the latest firmware on all the hardware. I’m shooting a wedding in 2 days i’m glad i haven’t sold my old 56 yet.. cause the new one is practically unusable right now.. WTF fujifilm..

Great to see a new Firmware release (3.01) BUT still no fix for the manual Focus Peaking Bug. A 'professional camera' with great new manual focus lenses, that doesn't have this feature is bitterly disappointing. I still pick up my X-T3 in preference to this camera.

Great review! Especially appreciate your details on the image sharpness. I’m considering the Meike lens over the 7Artisans…since the Meike aperture ring is wider and has clicks.

New Firmware v. 3.01 for X-T5 addresses these issues, Did you try pls report if your problems are fixed.

Nice work

One of the cables for my front focus selector is broken. Your video was amazing help in getting far enough to find it, thank you! However, I don't know how to get as far in as the front panel to access the back of the switch. Do I need to remove a front panel? Long shot on the reply, but if you could any help would be so appreciated!

Jus to confirm: there's no SD card? what size would you recommend for the 40MP xt-5?

Yes -T2 is very good

Thank you for the nice review. I bought an X-T2 for very cheap and I am happy to see that it still performs upto today's standards.

Thanks for going into the details in your comparison and showing some of your street photos at the end, very nice! The poor X-T5 focus performance and chromatic aberrations on the key lock example was quite astonishing. The latter can be removed in PP but the focus is crucial. From your experience, did it improve since the day of the review? Ok, I just found your recent video about the issue and it seems to got better with the newest firmware :) ua-cam.com/video/TUjMvarXWs0/v-deo.html

I sent the camera to Fujifilm service Greece, I described the problem and I left it for a month...I had no information when I called them...Then they told me....The technical service cannot understand what is wrong with the machine!!! I asked them to send me the camera back... They are unacceptable... they hadn't checked anything on the camera... they hadn't even done a factory reset in case I had set something wrong...

I have the same problems with the Xh2...10-24 problem 23 f/1.4 R problem 35mm f/2 problem...only lens that works properly 70-300mm.

Thank you for this! The side by side bokeh comparison was exactly what I needed. IMO, along with DoF, it's the main reason to by a large aperture lens in the age of image stablization. If I ever wondered if Fuji lenses were worth the extra money, this answers that for me. The Fuji bokeh is so much smoother!

Where can I get a clear glass hotpass filter? Thank you

Good job on this!

Hi great video... I have found shooting at the 20m pixels setting (not 40mp) fixes speed, accuracy, lens quality (on older lenses) and noise - Its now absolutely perfect - hope this helps someone. I upgraded from XT3 because wanted IS, larger batt, new processor speed and latest film sims and the see through Q display.

Much appreciate. Thank you.

Camera 5:00

I have the same issue with my X-H2. Have sent it to Fuji tech support twice. Still the same issue. Never had any issue with my X-T3. Have you found a cause or solution?

Hi, my joystick is loose and wobbly, it doesn’t return to the middle so well. It can be annoying to move the focus point. Is there a way to fix the issue myself?

From my tests with h2s I noticed that in low light it locks onto the distant subject several times without any f problems and the bar remains stuck on infinity. In good daylight it jumps from 2 to 10 meters as before, and with manual focus and bbf everything is fine again. Now my dilemma is this. Since I can't give the camera away because it's essentially faulty (not my fault, never taken a single hit) what do I do, do I resign myself to taking pictures with bbf or do I send it from Italy to England to the repair centre?? Will they do something with it or send it back as is? What would you do in my place?

My own tests confirm your results. Xt-5 is now very 'sticky' in S-AF, not quite perfect but now reliable enough to use without resorting to the BBF work-around.

Hi, sorry, I wanted to ask you for some information. I tried to set the camera in af m using the af on button for focusing, as a last resort before taking all the kit and throwing it into the sea. Just a clarification.. When I press the shutter button halfway, the little square doesn't turn green, it only does so if I press af on. And so far everything is ok. While holding down af on to shoot, the green focus confirmation square briefly turns non-green again when I press the shutter button halfway, then press again to shoot. Is this correct as I'm doing or do I have to disable something in the shutter button to ensure that the box is always green until I fully press the shutter button? Because basically I realized that even with af m inserted, if I click the shutter button it still focuses (even if in the menu under af m +af s it is off). Sorry for asking but for me this is a new way of shooting and I have to understand if I'm doing it right

can I ask the country of original production is China?

Immagini Video Shopping Maps Libri Notizie Voli Finanza Tutti i filtri Risultati di ricerca Risultato di traduzione Italiano Inglese HI. Thanks for the video. I have seen this problem on my xh2s. I keep the focal point very far in the frame with the 16 55 at 16mm, but it does the same with the new 18mm. Checking with the focus control one autofocus out of 10 is out of focus, in optimal conditions iso 160 fast times, f8 ois also dusactivated not. Enter the stabilizer. Pretty disgusting for a camera costing almost 3,000 euros!

good for vídeo?

Отличный обзор, спасибо!

The Fuji AF system appears to focus with the lens stopped down to the aperture selected by the user. This is unlike other systems where the lens focuses wide open and only stops down to take the photo. By stopping down during focusing, the depth of field is larger so that it become more likely that the camera will focus anywhere within that larger range. This is more of a problem when using wide angle lenses which already have a larger depth of field by virtue of their focal length. I suppose Fuji can change this in firmware, but they've obviously chosen this focusing method for some reason so I feel it's unlikely it will be changed.

The issue has nothing to do with your technique. The issue is with the camera. I have seen this problem with an X-T3 and X-H2S. I believe it has to do with the software/firmware in Fujifilm cameras. If customer pressure isn't enough to get Fujifllm to take action, perhaps pressure from businesses that make lenses and other accessories for Fujifilm products, will drive a solution.

If you are interested on this issue, you can read this great article by Fcracer and follow all the links in his last comment in the comment section: fcracer.com/frustrated-with-the-fujifilm-x-t5-got-a-sony-a7r5/

My X-T5 has killer AF. You must have a bad setting or a bad copy. I would return it or rent another copy to compare it to.

This lens is like the 7 artisans/tt artisan optimized for portrait distance, not for close up. It seems to be the best of the cheap 50 0.95 lenses however. The aperture markers are not correct. F 1.4 is F 1.2 F2 is F 1.5 etc. Bearing this in mind the image quality is very good.

This problem persits with all Fuji bodys. Imo this is because Fuji doesn't use open aperture to focus like other brands. (you have to use AF-ON for this). I could imagine they use front focus to get more bachground blur.

Hello my friend, nice video, thank you for the comments what do you think about the build quality? I read read that feel cheap and hand.

There is no waranty card?

Place the camera underwater in the bath tub over night and it'll be all right in the morning. If not then manual focus and use back button focus technique.

I sent the camera for service.

Can you use an external flash in this bkt mode like you can with om?

Did you just remove only the blue glass?

thank you so much! But the issue is much bigger with a XF14mm f/2.8 at f/5.6....8, XF16mm f/1.4 at f/5.6...8, XF16-80mm f/4 at 16 to 24mm at f/5.6...f/8 , Tamron 17-70mm f/2.8 at 17 to 23mm at f/5.6...f/8, ..., ...., .... and even a XF16-55mm f/2.8 at 16 to 23mm at f/5.6...f/8. And you can find this issue with all cameras. X-T1, X-T2, X-T3, X-T4, X-T5 and X-H2. But yes, you can't hardly see it with 16 MP. You can see it more clearly with 40 MP

ua-cam.com/video/lMcR9Rd581w/v-deo.html

Exactly the review i was looking for as i was trying to decide between the ttartisan and the meike. I am looking to use it for 360 videos. Thanks for this!

New firmware?